This year, Easter is in March, and Carnivale has already begun in Venice.

The festivities start at least two Fridays before Shrove Tuesday, the day before Ash Wednesday; but along with variations in spelling – Carnavale, Carnevale – are various dates for when the festival began. Some sources cite January 6th, Epiphany (also the Twelfth Day of Christmas), while other sources claim Carnivale started on December 26th, La Festa di Santo Stefano, St. Stephen’s Day.

 Some note that carnivale is an interpretation of parting with meat (carne and vale or carnem levare), in association with refraining from eating meat during Lent. Others mention its ties to the Latin carrus navalis, a cart used in a religious procession.

 Even the origins of Carnivale are debatable. Most sources mention that its tied to the Roman pagan festival Saturnalia, but some note that the canals of Venice were not easily inhabited during the Roman Empire. It wasn’t until the Empire’s fall that Venice began to grow as a city and its first Doge, chief magistrate, was elected in the late seventh century.

 By the twelfth century, Venice had become a powerful republic and Carnivale is said to have developed from a celebration of a victory in battle. The acquisition of land earned Venice the title of the Serenissima Republic, and it was during this time that Venice and Carnivale flourished.

 The tie-in to Mardi Gras in New Orleans does lead back to Saturnalia. The popular celebration spread through Europe and England, and was celebrated by the French explorers who established New Orleans. The masked balls and festivities were mixed with the art and music of the African community, and the celebration became more organized with the formation of krewes, who host the parade.

Like Mardi Gras, Carnival in Brazil has its roots in Saturnalia; but it’s influenced by the customs of the Portuguese and African cultures of those who settled in South America. The celebration is organized by samba schools, who design the theme and submit their ideas for floats.

The masks of Carnivale are also steeped in tradition. It’s noted that during the Middle Ages, nobility wore masks to shield their identity for protection and for anonymity during their indiscretions. Their servants wore them, too, and eventually, the townspeople began wearing them. Masks cut through the social barriers – everyone was equal – and provided an aura of mystery, with the mask shaping a new personality for its wearer.

By the sixteenth century, actors of Commedia dell'Arte (Artistic Comedy) began wearing masks to attract attention to their performances. Soon, masks portraying some of the popular characters – Pulcinella, Scaramouche (Scaramuccia), and Pantalone (Pantaloon) – were available, giving the wearer more options to conceal his or her identity and take on another personality, if only for a short time.

A popular costume is the unisex bauta, a cape, tricorno (three-tip hat), and mask which is also known as bauta or volto, a simple face mask. Another common mask is medico della peste or dottore peste (plague doctor), which was originally a mask and part of a protective outfit worn by doctors as a safeguard against the plague. The long beak encased salts and herbs to filter the air inhaled.

 When Venice became part of Austria in 1797, many of the traditional Carnivale festivities ended, although parties were still held until Italy became united in 1861; and some sources mention celebrations continued until Mussolini banned them in the 1930s. Starting in 1979, Venice revived Carnivale, and today the celebrations are an integral part of the charm of Venice.

This year, the theme of Carnivale is Sensation!, guaranteed to awaken all six senses – sight, sound, smell, touch, taste, and imagination and intuition, labeled the sixth. The festivities started January 25th; and, if your passport is current and you have a few days to spare (and a few dollars), you may still be able to participate in some of the closing events, such as the final Gondolier Tour and Dinner, or the Serenissima Ball with Operatic Love Duets. Today, in the piazza at Gran Caffè Lavena the crowd gathers for Hot Chocolate in Costume, a tradition dating back to the eighteenth century. View the complete program for 2008.

If you just can’t get away, start making plans for next year. In 2009, Carnivale begins February 13th and ends February 24th.

For a look at an exquisite collection of masks made in Venice visit Carta Alta, Maschere Veneziane. It’s open to the public; click on il laboratorio (laboratory) for a map of its location.

History of Carnival in Venice

National Geographic Venice Masquerade

San Marco Square, the Balls, and the Masks

 Carnaval de Venise: Beautiful Photographs (Check out the dog in costume!)

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